If my life centered around the beach, I would be the happiest camper ever. I haven't been to the beach in about a week.
The last time I headed out, the surf was up with about four to six foot faces. This would be just awesome accept for the fact that we were at a west shore beach during a north swell with high Kona winds. These conditions made for sloppy and choppy wave and surf.
We were highly disappointed, but this disappointment did not stop us from jumping in the water. Not go in the water?!? Heck no!
The sets were coming in strong one after another after another after...you get the point. Anyway, timing was essential and as soon as there was a small opening in between sets, we paddled out. Racing against the current and the oncoming sets, the adrenaline was being pumped into every muscle of our bodies. There's nothing like that feeling.
It was late afternoon, so there was only time to catch a few waves before the sun started to go down. Not the greatest surf day, but a day spent at the beach is a great day nonetheless
No comments:
Post a Comment